Behind the scenes: The side effects of being on the Lions tour
I wake up in a motel in Whangarei. Out the window it’s raining so hard we can’t even walk across the car park. This is the Lions tour, day one.
There’s four of us on the trip, and we’re in a campervan. Our job is to document the tour for Rugby Pass, but it doesn’t start smoothly. Although the rain has cleared by the time we get to the ground, we’re not allowed on the field itself like we wanted to. For my presentation to camera I’m wearing a suit contrived to look like what the All Blacks wear post-game, complete with official tie. It’s causing problems, as I also look exactly like the officials from NZ Rugby, which means that several people have come up and asked me for instructions. It won’t be the last time it gets me confused for someone I’m not, either.
At the end of that first game though, those issues don’t seem as bad as the ones facing the Lions. The best of Britain has struggled to beat a bunch of nobodies dressed up as the ‘Provincial Barbarians’. It doesn’t get any better a few days later at Eden Park, where they lose to the lowly Blues.
It gets cold very quickly as we head south in our campervan. By the time we reach Picton, I’m huddling under a duvet in the back lounge of the vehicle. The central heating system is unreliable at best, besides we can’t leave the gas on when we sleep for fear of accidentally killing ourselves.
All signs heading into Christchurch is that this tour is going to be as catastrophic as everyone predicted. And I mean everyone. By now I’ve got to know a few of the British press traveling with the tour and they seem to be even more dismissive of the Lions’ chances than the local media.
We’re all surprised when the Lions pull off a grinding, boring win against the previously unbeaten Crusaders – however my main memory of this match was how the knights who ride on horseback into AMI Stadium were casually getting changed into their costume armour just metres away from the crowd queuing up to get into the ground, utterly ruining my suspension of disbelief.
In Dunedin the Lions lose again, and so do I as I’m forced to walk back from the stadium into the city in the pouring rain. By now I’ve caught a nasty cold, which isn’t helped by a long journey back north in our fridge on wheels.
This is the harshest leg – Dunedin to Rotorua in time for the Maori All Blacks game. We roll into Sulphur City a tired bunch, having driven 1,200km in 36 hours. The British journalists I talk to before the game are spouting more doom than ever, so when the Lions pull off a comprehensive victory the mood lifts considerably. Which is good, because being around all these grumpy Poms wasn’t much fun. They cheer up even more when we get to Hamilton, the Lions destroy the Chiefs and all of a sudden there’s some real intrigue heading into the first test.
Sean O’Brien scores one of the greatest tries ever, but it’s to no avail. The Lions lose to the All Blacks, and we head south again to Wellington. Things are starting to get tense, this next week will more or less define the whole tour.
It hasn’t stopped one British journalist I’ve befriended from hitting Tinder hard in the capital. He knows I’m originally a local and asks me where to take a girl he’s matched with, who he claims to be a former Miss Wellington – I suggest the most expensive restaurant in town. Meanwhile, one of his colleagues attempts to hit on one of the girls the Wellington Rugby Union has employed to show us around Westpac Stadium, despite the obvious age difference between them.
The Lions draw with the Hurricanes, and the post match press conferences started to get interesting. Up until then, Warren Gatland had been mostly sleeptalking his way through the post match formalities – now he was having to explain in great detail why he’d refused to use his bench, essentially throwing away a win to a fast finishing Hurricane outfit. For some reason I’m in the front row of the presser, and I almost find myself ducking the low key hatred between Gatland and the media being spat back and forth.
The tension spills over onto the otherwise benign captain’s run the day before the test. We film a preview piece for the second test, so I’m in my ‘All Blacks’ suit feeling goofy as ever. A very large man in a Lions tracksuit approaches me, but instead of talking he starts gesturing with his hands. His grasp of sign language is pretty poor, so I politely inform him that I’m able to understand English if that’s what he wants to converse in.
It turns out the Lions management think I’m a spy from the All Blacks. I decide to be diplomatic and not bring up the counterpoint that being dressed the way I am would make me the world’s most poorly disguised spy. I remove the tie and jacket, however, I’ve got a more pressing problem – it feels like something has bitten me on my backside.
Sitting down for the duration of the second test is difficult, because there’s a growing lump right where my butt is hitting the seat. The pain is about as epic as the test itself, which sees the Lions pull off their first test victory in NZ in 24 years.
One painful journey back to Auckland later and I’m lying on a hospital bed, staring up at bright lights and a seemingly unnecessary amount of doctors. I’ve never been under general anaesthetic before, but I’m mainly worried about if I’ll need to take some sort of cushion to sit on in the media box at Eden Park.
The operation is a success, and I’m told that it was a skin abscess most likely caused by the radical change in diet and dramatic lack of exercise I’ve experienced over the last month. I can’t argue with this diagnosis, the most nutritious dish I’ve had on the journey so far was the new McDonalds Chicken McMuffin.
The pain has thankfully dissipated by the time I get to Eden Park for the last test. The whole week leading up has been one of intrigue and speculation, so I dress sensibly in case I’m accused of espionage again.
Of course, no one cares after the final whistle because all anyone can talk about is the referee. Sensing that I could cheer Steve Hansen up in the press conference, I lob him an easy question that’s not about the crazy ending of the game. I ask if he’s missed having Dane Coles in the squad, and he can’t resist making a dry quip about how the injured hooker had never actually left and stayed on in a mentoring role for Codie Taylor. To my surprise, the All Black coach then apologises and gives a surprisingly detailed answer about the role of the new players in the squad.
I’m feeling about as journalistic as I have on the whole tour, and it’s over. We make plans to go out, but they’re abandoned when we walk out the door at midnight. It’s absolutely pissing down – just like the day it started.
I go home, feeling like I could sleep for a week. Everything ended up going the opposite of the way it should’ve gone. The test series has ended in a draw. The Lions managed to beat the midweek sides they should’ve lost to. Even though I’m a Wellingtonian, I have a newfound place in my heart for the Crusaders for the wonderful food they gave me and the rest of the media.
The next Lions tour of New Zealand will be in 2029, and I will be far too old to be risking getting my health in a dodgy campervan by then. It’s highly unlikely I’ll ever experience anything like the last six weeks again in my life.
Comments on RugbyPass
Bell injured his foot didn’t he? Bring Tupou in he’ll deliver when it counts. Agree mostly but I would switch in the Reds number 8 Harry Wilson for Swinton and move Rob Valentini to 6 instead. Wilson is a clever player who reads the play, you can’t outmuscle the AB’s and Springboks, if you have any chance it’s by playing clever. Same goes for Paisami, he’s a little guy who doesn’t really trouble the likes of De Allende and Jordie Barrett. I’d rather play Carter Gordon at 12 and put Michael Lynagh’s boy at 10. That way you get a BMT type goalkicker at 10 and a playmaker at 12. Anyways, just my two cents as a Bok supporter.
13 Go to commentsThanks Brett, love your articles which are alway pertinent. It’s a difficult topic trying to have a panel adjudicating consistently penalties for red card issues. Many of the mitigating reasons raised are judged subjectively, hence the different outcomes. How to take away subjective opinions?
4 Go to commentsYes Sir! Surprising, just like Fraser would also have escaped sanction if he was a few inches lower, even if it was by accident that he missed! Has there really been talk about those sanctions or is this just sensational journalism? I stopped reading, so might have missed any notations.
4 Go to commentsAI is only as good as the information put in, the nuances of the sport, what you see out the corner of the eye, how you sum up in a split second the situation, yes the AI is a tool but will not help win games, more likely contribute to a loss, Rugby Players are not robots, all AI can do if offer a solution not the solution. AI will effect many sports, help train better golfers etc.
45 Go to commentsIt couldn’t have been Ryan Crotty. He wasn’t selected in either World Cup side - they chose Money Bill instead. And Money Bill only cared about himself, and that manager he had, not the team.
26 Go to commentsYawn 🥱 nobody would give a hoot about this new trophy. End of the day we just have to beat Ireland and NZ this year then they can finally shut up 🤐
13 Go to commentsTalking bout Ryan Crotty? Heard Crotty say in a interview once that SBW doesen't care about the team . He went on to say that whenever they lost a big game, SBW would be happy as if nothing happened, according to him someone who cares would look down.. Personally I think Crotty is in the wrong, not for feeling gutted but for expecting others 2 be like him… I have been a bad loser forever as it matters so much to me but good on you SBW for being able to see the bigger picture….
26 Go to commentsThis sounds like a WWE idea so Americans can also get excited about rugby, RUGBY NEEDS A INTERNATIONAL CALENDER .. The rugby Championship and Six Nations can be held at same time, top 3 of six nations and top 3 of Rugby championship (6 nations should include Georgia AND another qualifying country while Fiji, Japan and Samoa/Tonga qualifier should make out 6 Southern teams).. Scrap June internationals and year end tours. Have a Elite top six Cup and the Bottom 6 in a secondary comp….
13 Go to commentsThe rugby championship would be even stronger with Fiji in it… I know it doesen’t fit the long term plans of NZ or Aus but you are robbing a whole nation of being able to see their best players play for Fiji…. Every second player in NZ and AUS teams has Fijian surnames… shame on you!!! World rugby won’t step in either as France and England has now also joined in…. I guess where money is involved it will always be the poor countries missing out….
84 Go to commentsNo surprise there. How hard can it be to pick a ball off the ground and chuck it to a mate? 😂
2 Go to commentsSometimes people just like a moan mate!
4 Go to commentsexcellent idea ! rugby needs this 💪
13 Go to comments9 Brumbies! What a joke! The best performing team in Oz! Ditch Skelton for Swain or Neville. Ryan Lonergan ahead of McDermott any day! Best selection bolter is Toole … amazing player
13 Go to commentsI like this, but ultimately rugby already has enough trophies. Trying to make more games “consequential" might prove to be a fools errand, although this is a less bad idea than some others. Minor quibble with the title of the article; it isn’t very meaningful to say the boks are the unofficial world champions when it would be functionally impossible for the Raeburn trophy not to be held by the world champions. There’s a period of a few months every 4 years when there is no “unofficial” world champion, and the Raeburn trophy is held by the actual world champions.
13 Go to commentsIts a great idea but one that I dont think will have a lot of traction. It will depend on the prestige that they each hold but if you can do that it would be great. When Japan beat the Boks (my team) I was absolutely devestated but I wont deny the great game they played that day. We were outclassed and it was one of the best games of rugby I have seen. Using an idea like this you might just give the the underdog teams more of an opportunity to beat the big teams and I can absolutely see it being a brilliant display of rugby. They beat us because they planned for that game. It was a great moment for Japan. This way we can remove the 4 year wait and give teams something to aim for outside of World Cup years.
13 Go to commentsHi, Dave here. Happy to answer questions 🥰
13 Go to commentsDon’t think that headline is accurate. It’s great to see Aus doing better but I’m not sure they’ve shown much threat to the top of the table. They shouldn’t be inflating wins against the lousy Highlanders and Crusaders either.
3 Go to commentsSuch a shame Roigard and Aumua picked up long term injuries, probably the two form players in the comp. Also, pretty sure Clarke Dermody isn’t their coach. Got it half right though.
3 Go to commentsOh the Aussie media, they never learn. At least Andrew Kellaway is like “Woah, yeah it’s great, but settle down there guys” having endured years of the Aussie media, fans, and often their players getting ahead of themselves only to fall flat on their faces. Have the “We'll win the Bledisloe for sure this year!” headlines started yet? It’s simple to see what’s going on. The Aussie teams are settled, they didn't lose any of their major players overseas. The Crusaders and Chiefs lost key experienced All Blacks, and Razor in the Crusaders case, and clearly neither are anywhere near as strong as last year (The Canes and Blues would probably be 3rd & 4th if they were). The Highlanders are annually average, even more so post-Aaron Smith and a big squad clean out. The two teams at the top? The two nz sides with largely the same settled roster as last year, except Ardie Savea for the Canes. They’ve both got far better coaches now too. If the Aussies are going to win the title, this is the year the kiwi sides will be weakest, so they better take their chance.
3 Go to commentsThe World Cup has to be the gold standard, line in the sand. 113 teams compete for what is the opportunity to make the pool stages, and then the knockout games for the trophy. The concept is sound. This must have been the rationale when the World Cup was created, surely? But I’m all for Looking forward and finding new ways for the SH to dominate the NH into the future. The autumn series needs a change up. Let’s start by having the NH teams come south every odd year for the Autumn/Spring series games?
13 Go to comments